Tiko Trials, Troubles and More

About two weeks ago my long-awaited Tiko mini delta 3D printer arrived. Promised to deliver over 14 months ago, I had high hopes that all of the major design and manufacturing issues had been solved. Not so.  The picture below chronicles a history of failed prints…

Mostly failed prints.

Mostly failed prints.

Starting from the upper left corner, that is the print which came attached to the build plate as a sample from the factory.  Next to the right is my local demo print.  Not too bad so far.  But then the next print (the rook) is leaning to one side and the plastic looks very distressed.  Those first 3 prints were with Tiko GEM filament that came with the machine.

I switched to orange PLA from MakerBot.  The Make Robot test piece failed in about the same place both times.  The filament jammed in the Bowden tube and had to be removed manually.  Next is a try with red translucent MakerBot PLA – got further but still no success.  And the rats nest to the right in the middle row is back to Tiko GEM PLA and was supposed to be a rook.  The rotor keychain on the bottom right failed to complete too – this was with M3D Cobalt Blue PLA.  The white part in the middle also failed and was Polymaker PolyMax PLA.  Finally, the last one on the right was back to M3D Cobalt Blue PLA – a larger try of the demo part it started with at the top.

In every case but for the one rook, the filament jammed behind the extruder nozzle.  Removing the filament manually I found in every case that heat creep and softening of the filament 1.5″ – 2″ above the tip caused a plug to form.  The extruder gear then would grind off the filament and the whole thing had shut down – no more extrusion.

This led me to wonder just what the temperature of the nozzle was really. Although I set it to 205C in their WIT control interface, all the evidence pointed to something wrong on the high side.  Andir_0022 now you see why – my FLIR thermal camera is showing the tip temperature when I merely selected “heat nozzle.”  And when printing (set for 205C!)here is what I got – a whopping 270C!  Note that this design uses a PTFE Bowden tube to the head and no true active cooling of the extruder itself.  PTFE softens at 247C or thereabouts, and by 270C is all but useless.  Not to mention that PLA is not going to survive in the heat break area above because eventually it will significantly soften there.

This is exactly the behavior ir_0028I was getting.  What to do?  Thankfully there is a recovery panel where you can force the machine to recalibrate the heater.  I decided to try this –  and the change in results was immediate.  I was able to print to completion the Make Robot and the demo sample but now a new problem is evident – layer shift.  You can clearly see this in the letter “M” on the Make Robot piece.  Why the shifts?  While not clear at this point, it appears to be a mechanical problem. One theory is that an axis motor gets stuck with the interfering Bowden tube.  It sure seems to be too long.  Another is that the control arms are too flimsy and bend when warm.  They clearly seem too flimsy to me, but somimg_09631e bloggers think this is a deliberate choice.  Deliberate or not, the mechanical integrity of this 3D printer is in question, and many users are reporting this issue.  A third possibility mentioned is the slicer.  I might collect the gcode for the Make Robot and put it into a visualizer to see if indeed the math is wrong somehow and the machine is just doing what a corrupt slicer is saying to do.img_0964

BTW the hot-end heater has no thermistor or any means of direct temperature measurement by the controller.  They are relying on the DC resistance of the heater and then controlling the current into it based on some translation in the firmware.   There are no other wires coming from the heated end other than the digital accelerometer (used to determine leveling and mounted on the Bowden tube well above the hot end) and the two wires for the heater.  And in an October Kickstarter update, they discussed “solving” the jams caused by this heater.  This type of design is called a “self-regulating” heater, and these are most often applied where a specific target temperature is to be achieved.  The best example application is the heat tape you use for deicing a downspout or gutter in winter. It is certainly novel for a 3D printer, and from my engineering point of view a poor choice for a low-cost machine.  Temperature regulation needs to be precise and dynamic at the hot end – and this one has a very low mass – thus little “stored” heat to level things out.

So should you preorder one of these at the asking price of $199?  Knowing that I still do not have a truly working unit should help you decide.  Even my best print so far has lots of stringy webs from insufficient retraction. In the picture of the robot you can see this between the arms the and top of the head.  Apparently at least a few folks are getting decent results.  And as of this writing there is a “problem” with batch 4 and beyond but the Tiko folks have not even hinted at what that might be.  And refunds which have been offered and requested due to the long delay in delivery have been frozen…

So I ran two more test parts after the heater recalibration – and the second completed but clearly showed the start of jamming half-way through due to overheating behind the hot end.  So for now my plan is to put it back in the box and wait to see if some update is offered that gets the quality issues solved, assuming that actually can be done!  While there are a number of suggested modifications on the discussion areas, I intend to keep my machine “stock” for now.

UPDATE 1/27/17

There was a promised update for the web interface and the firmware today, and yes indeed, powering it up it got it just fine.  Remarkably, at least for my machine, the update actually made it work tremendously better – it actually got through a long print (3 hrs.) without a layer shift or jam.  Still stringy though…. and yes, now rafts seem a bit harder to get separated as some on their forums have mentioned.  I’m not using the GEM filament that came with it – it is getting discarded… but I’m keeping the spool and refilling it with something of known pedigree that works in other machines.  I have some empty MakerBot Mini spools which fit nicely though they hold perhaps only 35% of the Tiko-supplied full spool.  However they are smoother running because there is less pull needed to move the filament.  I’ll update with some pictures of the new parts soon.

UPDATE 1/28/17

OK, the long overnight print sort of failed… about halfway through the LFS Elephant (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257911) there is a clear reduction in extrusion rate, and while it did complete the build, the top-most layers are largely webs instead of solid skins.  I reduced the temperature to 200c for that job (based on how things were looking on the first set at 205c), but I’ve now changed filament again and am running a low-poly squirtle with transparent red pla at 205c.

The gallery above shows the progression of extrusion from a reasonably good layering to the failed region. The first image shows the bottom area of the LFS Elephant.  The second picture shows the clear transition from acceptable to low / loss of extrusion.  The last picture was taken in monochrome at the last and top-most layers.  Clearly the filament is no longer being extruded to match the machine’s movement rate. These pictures were taken with a Celestron FlipView digital microscope at lowest magnification.

UPDATE 2/8/2017

As I hinted at earlier, the signs of business failure were becoming evident. And now if you check the project comments you’ll discover that indeed the Tiko project is in very deep distress. Despite promises, as these things tend to go I do not expect there will be refunds to folks who have preordered one or any more batches to be manufactured and sent – nor warranty support to those who were fortunate enough to be in the three batches that did get delivered (1 for Canada, 2 for US). With Monoprice to offer a $149 delta printer soon with practically the same build volume, touchscreen and WiFi control – the Tiko is simply too little too late. So another Kickstarter 3D printer project goes crashing – the success rate of 3D printer offerings on crowdfunding would be interesting to determine – I’d guess only about 1/3 – 1/2 actually deliver. As far as the Tiko goes, whatever community springs up to be the unofficial support will determine its ultimate usefulness.  For now, I don’t have the time to delve into modifications and improvements. And if all else fails, I’ve got an interesting WiFi controlled desk lamp!

UPDATE 2/13/2017

Could not say it better: Tiko 3d Printer Hard Landing

UPDATE 2/22/2017

The long promised update is now posted. A significant quote from it goes as follows:

“Despite the year and a half of hardware and software setbacks, manufacturing challenges, repeated delays, regulatory hurdles, unending certification requirements, unplanned operating expenses, logistical nightmares, sleepless nights, strained relationships, frustrated suppliers, a disgruntled community, new competitors, and a jaded industry, we simply refused to give up. Day after day, we kept fighting with all our hearts. Evenings. Weekends. More engineers. More developers. More prototypes. More testing. Nothing was ever enough. We did everything we could to turn this around, but by November 2016, we were at a breaking point. With resources running thin, and options running out, we prepared for one final push. We believed software improvements could solve the remaining technical issues, and that pre-orders could solve our financial ones. It was our big chance to get back on our feet.

We gave it everything we had, and we made great progress, but in the end it wasn’t enough. Software had improved, but not enough. Same with hardware and quality control. Pre-orders streamed in, but they too were just not enough. We were right at the finish line, and yet, we were miles away.”

Of course, that status was not reflected in the updates last year.

It is not enough to do your best; you must know what to do, and then do your best.          W. Edwards Deming

Happy New Year 2017

As always, a new round of technology is on display at the Winter CES show in Las Vegas. Given that temperatures are in the teens where I live, warm and sunny Las Vegas sounds rather enticing… However, from my research on the 3D printing space there it is clear that the economic downturn and “cooling” of the market is showing in the types of new offerings. XYZPrinting is there in force with some new selections, but other than the new Markforged desktop metal printer, there isn’t much to be excited about. For one thing, that machine will not be a consumer-priced offering (and as of this writing no price has been announced).

I do have some reviews that have been neglected: the Pixelio scanner table is here, a Mod-T 3D printer, and hopefully by early February a Uniz3D Slash LCD-SLA unit. The Tiko mini delta printer also came just last week, and I’ve managed to get some prints out of it, but nothing great so far. At least I got one! It also looks promising to get the PolyMaker Polysher unit by early February too. I’ve tested a sample of their PVB filament used in that process and had great results – even rough polishing it with IPA in a perfume atomizer. I’ve worked with some Monoprice IIIP units including the MakerSelect and the prints have been fantastic. I’m going to tackle these one by one with some video included too.

And now on to my predictions for 2017 and 3D printing: the consumer space will further consolidate – and educational (read more expensive) offerings will be the norm. I’d like to see a reliable resin printer for under $1000 with decent software (it is possible). And I’d like to see some better 3D scanners. 2017 looks to be the year of IoT, Virtual Reality, and maybe drones… so I rather think that the additive manufacturing space will see less development for now. However, I would not mind being pleasantly surprised!

Fall is here and I’m so way behind on tech reviews!

In case you follow this blog and thought that I’d been abducted by aliens or worse — no I’m still much in the game and there are so many things to catch up on. Such as:

We’ll look at the new MakerBot SmartExtruder+, Tough PLA SmartExtruder, and MakerBot Replicator 5th Gen Plus. That alone is a lot. I have tested the new tough PLA in the heat of battle – 3lb battlebots to be exact – and the three parts made this way held up exceptionally well. More on that to come!

A review of the Mod-t printer is also in the works. And my experiences printing TPU (thermoplastic urethane) have been really fun. Again, some parts made for a recent 3lb battlebot competition held up so well they came out without a scratch.

Liquid resin printers are getting into the mainstream – check out this awesome new offering on Kickstarter: The Morpheus Morpheus 3D This machine is using the concept of an LCD screen and appropriate lighting, such as the ONO unit coming out later (we hope) this month. The ONO 3D printer uses “daylight” curing resin (probably deep blue actually) from the LCD / LED screen of your phone. The promise is of smooth layers and even clear prints if desired.

Scanning is also an area seeing new options. Smartphones have such incredible cameras these days it doesn’t make sense to use some other imaging part. The long-awaited Bevel from Matter and Form seems to be still long awaited… But I did get my Pixelio scan table and can say it works nicely. More on that later too. Check it out here: Pixelio

So stay tuned – by US Thanksgiving holiday I should have at least a few new personal reviews out there.

Solidoodle – end of the road

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sdoodleripAlthough the signs of impending doom were evident since late last Fall, Solidoodle formally announced end of operations on March 28.  You can read Sam Cervantes’ message to the Solidoodle community here:  http://www.solidoodle.com/blog.html

spress

Solidoodle Press

As I expected, the Press was cited as a major reason for their demise.  You can check my previous blog posts for my experience with an early released unit.  This was a smart looking machine with miserable performance, although with time it did get better – but never close to my Solidoodle2, which continues to run even today (albeit with some needed modifications).

So another 3D printer manufacturer closes its doors.  Sam doesn’t say what he is planning to do now that his company is gone, but I wish him luck in his future endeavors…

2015 – A look back and ahead to 2016

This morning 3D Systems announced “end of life” for their consumer 3D printer, the Cube 3… Cube 3 Discontinued and while parts and supplies will be available for some time, the refocus of 3D Systems into the higher-end educational and industrial applications is a reflection of the narrow profit margins for low-volume per vendor and lots of competition in the consumer space — not to mention that the expected “3D printer in every home” is not even close to reality.

It has been a hard year for consumer-level additive manufacturing in general.  And despite some record funding, additive manufacturing projects on Kickstarter such as Pirate3D have collapsed in a heap.  Solidoodle is rumored to be bankrupt Solidoodle out of money.  Several others also folded (Phoenix3D, MakiBox, supposedly Zeepro, etc.) and of course as mentioned above, 3D Systems has ended their consumer Cube line in favor of refocusing on educational and industrial markets.

This was as I predicted – the wave of startups brought chaos and fragmentation to the consumer marketplace though there are good choices to be had.  A problem remains — 3D printers, no matter what the make, are not just one more “D” in complexity than ink jet/laser paper printers on the desktop.

However, the educational applications are indeed great.  In the “STEM” field, the ability to create and then “print” designs as part of the overall learning experience is an important enhancement.  In a way, this is nothing unexpected – project-based learning has always been at the core of good teaching.  Learning about an electronic circuit is fine but getting the parts and making it actually work is another level of skill. The same applies to mechanical designs and 3D printing – as part of a larger maker space or even as a community resource.

So what is in store for 2016?  The Consumer Electronics Show in early January in Las Vegas will be one indicator.  I predict we’ll see substantive improvements and useful tweaks in consumer offerings, and I’m hoping that liquid systems, though still fussy, will continue to be refined and reduced in cost.  The “plug-and-play” 3D printer is not here yet and may not be soon, but I’m not giving up on the technology!

And one last word – to keep this blog independent and self-sustaining, a small donation to my “caffeine fund” would be appreciated! Just find the “donate button” on the left side of the web page – even $1 will be gratefully acknowledged! 🙂

Amazing new tabletop laser cutter

Glowforge pictureCO2 laser cutters have been around for a while, but they are either very expensive or just (like low-end imports) not well designed.  A new offering that is probably the most consumer friendly device I’ve seen in this area is called the “Glowforge.”  The basic unit comes with a 40W CO2 laser, continuous autofocus, a 12″ x 20″ bed and internal object recognition cameras that work to identify the materials and alignment.

Check it out here:  glowforge laser

And if you would like a $100 coupon off the purchase check here:  $100 Coupon

This will cover the $99 shipping charge (if you are in the US) so think of it as free shipping!

Early orders go out in December 2015 but I’d guess that later orders will not be fulfilled until mid-2016 (just guessing).

UPDATE: Shipments have been delayed for at least 6 months due to an issue with the power supply – claimed to be a custom component – and that only now (4/16) have the first samples of properly spec’d parts arrived. Refunds are available if you do not want to wait…

Some upcoming reports and a coupon!

First – a shameless promotion… MakerBot is running a coupon special.  If you tap on this link $25 MakerBot Coupon you’ll get a coupon for $25 off your order on a MakerBot machine and supplies.  The details will appear in a new window… Yes, I’ll get a small commission if you use this custom coupon, but any receipts go back into paying for this blog and purchasing machines and materials to test and review.

So while I’ve been quiet for a bit, here are some upcoming reviews that you might find useful:

DaVinci Nobel 1.0 SLA

iBox Nano SLA

Little RP SLA w/tilt option

SeeMeCNC Droplit SLA

And maybe by the end of October, a Peachy Printer…

Spring update

Despite the fact that it is astronomical spring here in the northeast US, still a pile of accumulated snow remains in my front yard.  Hopefully it will not last much longer!

Since early February I’ve been focused at work on a number of extra projects and at my home shop, working on updates to current machines.  So here is a brief summary as to where things are at this stage:

1. MakerBot Mini – working really well, new firmware released recently has made it quieter and the mandatory rafts are now much easier to remove.

2. Cube 3d Generation – with both client and firmware updates and along with some tweaks in the cartridge design have now made this machine very reliable (for me anyway) and builds are working in one or two color mode.

3. Solidoodle Press – soon up for sale.  I’ll be putting it on ebay for $349 plus shipping, maybe less… contact me if you’re interested.

4. Zeepro Zim – the user interface has improved by leaps and bounds.  The machine itself is solidly built and is probably the most quiet hardware out there.  Now that cloud printing and remote control is available, it is one worth considering.  To sweeten the deal, they were having a limited sale at their site http://www.zeepro.com recently.

A new addition to my software resources is Simplify3D.  I’ll be doing a separate review soon, but wanted to mention that it does run a DaVinci 3D 1.0a machine just fine and the results are far better than the free client supplied from xyzprinting with the machine.  In fact, their client software is probably the worst one out there — you’d think a large corporation could manage to create an exemplary user interface to their equipment.  Their new Junior unit is now listed on Amazon for pre-order.

Solidoodle Press – more fixes and improvements

I managed to print a 20mm calibration cube using some ABS filament other than what was sent with the machine.  The part came out with some interesting defects (the side walls showed definite herringbone patterns, suggesting insufficient drive to the extruder motor) however the X and Y accuracy was pretty good. But as I unloaded the filament at the end of the job, it was obvious that I too now had the “loose screw” in the drive wheel problem.

Fixing that is not difficult – take the plastic cover off and the left side of the extruder body using the two thumbscrews.  Then take the fan on the right side off and it will uncover some slits where you can easily insert a 1.5mm allen wrench.  Of course you’ll have to get the drive wheel in the correct place on the stepper motor shaft, as well as the proper front spacing.

Pictures coming soon.  Note also Solidoodle released an update (1.1.1 now) to the client software on 2/12 or so) – it fixes some issues reported so far.

UPDATE:  while I get my video properly edited, here are the things you can do to improve your head cable:

1. Remove (and discard!) the factory supplied black cable loom piece – if it is like mine, it is too stiff, too large, and too big in diameter.  It just gets in the way.

2. Use a tywrap to fix the cable bundle at the head to the top side of the extruder motor.  I also used some hot melt glue as an enhancement.  The wires should come off of the left side of the head, low and with enough give for the Z probe to move.

3. Use some tywraps to make the cable bundle secure along its length back to where the wires enter the chassis.

3. Fix an elastic string (I got some at a fabric shop) to the cable bundle about midway, and hot melt glue it there and to the front left corner of the chassis.  There will be some need for experimentation for the best “preload.”  What this does is keep the cable assembly tensioned so that it remains relatively suspended no matter where the head is positioned.

4. Finally, use 1/4″ plastic spiral wrap (I tried 1/8″ and it is too tight) to cover the entire length of the cable.

If I can only get my regular day job of late done, I’ll be able to get to this fun stuff! 😉  And a new post with video will be there soon.  This works fairly well so far but I remain convinced it is just an interim solution — something better is needed for the long term.

DSC01944 DSC01949

Solidoodle Press – epic fail!

To test this new machine, I used a “trivase” model which is fairly good for finding faults in sidewall consistency and Z wobble problems.  Because my first test model didn’t stick very well to the build plate, I used a thin coating of 3D Systems Cube(tm) Magic glue – this stuff is nearly clear and is not PVA like Elmers but still is water soluble.  After hairspray and Kapton tape, this is my favorite bed stick materal.  DSC01939   I let the machine run overnight. Next morning, though the job was “done,” this is what I saw in the machine – a partially completed vase.  What happened?  Turns out, I had a filament tangle in the spool.DSC01938  This is that tangle… and the filament had snapped inside the machine, running out as it kept trying to build – an airprint of sorts.

I detangled this mess, reloaded the filament and then tried to start another job.  But something was not right.  The extruder would work at the front of the machine, but not the back?  Bed leveling issue???  I thought the Z probe autolevel was supposed to fix this (more on that later).  However, as I went to check the Z height offset things were not working like it had originally.  The extruder motor was making weird noises.  No, this was not a filament jam! While you can’t see it, what happened was the wiring in the extruder motor connector had been compromised by the stress at that connector and the movement of the umbilical cord.  There is no strain relief here.  Look closely at the distance between the nylon wire wrap and the motor connector – that is how it is built.DSC01940  So as the head moves, the wires are getting bent and stressed, and the result is a broken connection.  I could actually see a tiny spark in the end of the motor connector on the left-most wire where it is attached to the crimped terminal.  While you can see I’ve changed out the larger plastic cable cover with flexible spiral wrap, the issue will come no matter what you do here – the attachment point and movement of the head will break these wires sooner or later.  My 12 hour overnight run definitely found this weakness.  I’m going to reattach the connector and figure out some added strain relief bracket to keep the umbilical cord from tugging on that part.

One last thing – the XY gantry has NO metal bearings.  Just plastic on the metal rods – plenty of grease – but this design was not meant for the long term.  Maybe OK at $349 but at $599 there are better built machines.  I will say the extruder is a huge step forward – easy to clean for one.  The shroud comes off, and another thumbscrew removes the half-plate on the left – the result is this:DSC01941  You can access the drive wheel and the lower part easily, and the extruder falls free of the drive block.  Do be careful!  I did this while it was hot to insure that I could get rid of any melted plastic along the way.  This design is remarkably clean and should perform well.  It also appears that this extruder will work with the TEM materials like Ninjaflex(tm) but that remains a test for another day.  And one other positive thing – the Z axis screw appears to be an Acme thread instead of the classic threaded rod approach, but I need to do some digging into the machine to confirm that.  Thanks to the Z probe report, I do know that my bed is more than 2mm lower in the front than the back – I plan to investigate that too.  More to come as I work with this machine.

UPDATE:  Some have asked if this machine has a cabinet filter and fan, and its amazing – it does!  It appears to have a carbon activated filter mesh, but I’ll need to dig deeper into the box.  I have it almost completely disassembled at this point, figuring I might as well do a thorough internal inspection while looking for useful enhancements.  One is the insulation on the heat bed pad underneath; in checking it I found it already was coming loose from the corners.  It is just glued on – so first I’m going to fix it with some Kapton tape at the edges.  I also recentered it – the original installation was obviously hasty.

UPDATE 2: The machine is now fully repaired and ready to go.  I added the heated bed insulation underside, repaired the motor connector wiring, added some strain relief and reworked the layout of the umbilical cord to the head.  One additional idea I had was to put a pad of ceramic wool insulation between the top of the head block and the extruder – keeping some radiated heat from getting to the upper section.  As I’ve only used the factory supplied ABS for now, I need to try some other filament and see how it goes.  As soon as I get more results I’ll post them here.